What does purple shampoo do? It's a toner you wash with. Purple shampoo cleans like a normal shampoo, but it also contains a violet dye that sits on the hair and neutralizes yellow by leaving a violet tint. Used once or twice a week, it keeps brassiness down between salon visits.
How purple shampoo works: the color wheel
Colors that sit opposite each other on the color wheel cancel each other out. Wella Professionals puts it simply: "Green sits opposite red, blue sits opposite orange, and purple sits opposite yellow."
So a little violet laid over yellow hair reads as neutral, not purple. A little blue over orange does the same.
| What your brass looks like | Color that cancels it | What to use |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow or straw | Violet | Purple shampoo |
| Orange or copper | Blue | Blue shampoo |
| Red | Green | A green toning product |
Revlon Professional says purple shampoo is "technically considered a toner", in the same family as glosses and demi-permanent color. The tint isn't permanent and washes out.
The violet in most formulas is a dye called Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (CI 60730 on some labels). It's an FDA-listed color additive that may be used in externally applied cosmetics, and you'll see it in the ingredient lists of the purple picks below.
Why blonde and gray hair turns yellow
- Lightened blonde fades warm. Revlon notes that color-treated blonde "naturally depigments and fades more quickly than other hair colors," and the warmth shows through.
- Everyday wear. Healthline lists hard-water minerals, fading dye, sun, heat styling and bleaching as common causes of brassiness.
- Gray has its own reason. In a 2008 Journal of Cosmetic Science study, researchers linked the yellow in gray hair to the breakdown of tryptophan, an amino acid in the hair. That breakdown happened faster under light in unpigmented hairs than in pigmented ones.
Who purple shampoo is for
Purple shampoo works best on hair that's light enough for yellow to show:
- Bleached, platinum or icy blonde
- Highlights, balayage or babylights
- Natural gray, silver or white hair
- Bronde or light brown hair with lightened pieces
It does very little for dark brown hair with no lightened sections. Wella says medium-to-dark brunettes with no lightened pieces "may find purple shampoo doesn't have a significant effect." It also won't lighten hair. Healthline is clear that it "is not a hair dye."
Purple shampoo for gray hair: does it work on natural gray?
Yes, if the problem is a yellow cast. Brands design purple shampoos for natural gray, not only dyed blonde. Clairol says Shimmer Lights "removes the dull yellow in gray hair" on "natural or color-treated hair," and Matrix describes its So Silver formula as adding brightness to "natural hair ranging from grey to white shades."
Three things help it work better on gray:
- Rule out build-up first. Stylists quoted by Hairdressers Journal say gray can pick up yellow from hard water, chlorine, smoke and styling products. In that case a clarifying shampoo comes first, because violet only tints over the yellow.
- Turn the heat down. Hot irons and dryers can warm up gray hair, so use a heat protectant.
- Skip "blonde" shampoos with gold tones. One colorist warns that some shampoos for blondes contain gold toning agents "that can end up discolouring" gray.
Very light and white hair shows over-toning most easily, so go easy. The same colorist says to avoid daily use so you don't end up with a lilac tint.
Blue shampoo for brunettes
When lightened brown hair turns brassy, the warmth is usually orange, not yellow. Wella says brassy brunette tones "can appear more orange than yellow, making blue pigments a better choice."
Pick by what you see in daylight:
- Brown hair with honey or blonde highlights that look yellow: purple shampoo.
- Brown or dark-blonde hair that's gone orange or copper: blue shampoo.
- Both: our suggestion is to start with the color that bothers you most, then switch if the other shows through.
Blue shampoo for orange hair
Blue shampoo is made for brown hair that's been lightened and now looks orange: balayage, ombré or highlights on a dark base. Use it the same way as purple. Joico, for example, directs leaving its blue shampoo on for three to five minutes, two or three times a week, alternating with your regular shampoo. Like purple shampoo, it's a tint, so it won't lighten anything.
How to use purple shampoo
1. Check the label first
Directions vary a lot between formulas, from one minute to five. Follow your bottle over any general rule, including ours.
2. Lather where the brass is
Wet your hair and work the shampoo in. If only your highlights or ends look yellow, Wella suggests you "focus the lather in these areas" instead of soaking every strand.
3. Leave it on 2 to 5 minutes
Healthline suggests 2 to 5 minutes. Many brands, including Clairol, say to wash once, then leave the second lather on for 3 to 5 minutes. On very pale or bleached hair, start at the short end. Revlon advises removing it quickly on heavily lightened hair.
4. Rinse well and condition
Rinse until the water runs clear, then condition. Healthline notes that some purple shampoos can dry hair out if they're used too often.
5. Use it once or twice a week
Healthline, Clairol and Wella all land on once or twice a week. Use your regular shampoo on the other days. You should see a difference after a few washes.
What over-toning looks like (and how to fix it)
Use purple shampoo too often or leave it on too long, and the tint stops canceling yellow and starts to show. On light blonde, gray or white hair, that's a lilac or lavender cast. Healthline says it can also look pink or blue, and Revlon describes "a slight purple or silver hue." Wella adds that it's most likely on porous or lightened hair.
It's temporary. To fix it:
- Wash with a clarifying shampoo. Revlon says this "should help remove the residual purple tone over a few washes."
- Use purple shampoo no more than once a week.
- Leave it on for less time next wash.
Purple shampoo and conditioner: do you need both?
You don't need both, but they work well together. A purple conditioner adds more toning pigment while it softens. Wella describes its own as giving "an extra dose of neutralizing pigments."
Here's how to choose:
- Brassy and dry: purple shampoo plus purple conditioner on toning days.
- Mildly warm, or your hair dries out easily: our suggestion is a gentle regular shampoo with a purple conditioner. That way you only get one dose of pigment.
- Gray or white hair that over-tones easily: we'd try the conditioner alone first, for one minute.
Picks that help
Want more options? Our full best purple shampoo guide compares them.
Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights Purple Shampoo
Best for: gray, silver and blonde hair. Drugstore.
- Clairol calls it a "protein-enriched color-enhancing shampoo" that tones brass on blonde or gray hair, natural or color-treated. It contains violet dyes and hydrolyzed vegetable protein, according to the Sally Beauty listing.
- For more toning, leave the second lather on for 3 to 5 minutes. The brand suggests using it once or twice a week.
- Who What Wear's blue-shampoo guide says colorist Kim Kimble rates it for dark blondes and light brunettes too, thanks to its "darker bluish-purple hue." Keep in mind: it isn't sulfate-free, and it has a floral fragrance.
Paul Mitchell Platinum Blonde Violet Shampoo
Best for: a gentler weekly tone on silver, gray, white or light blonde hair. Mid-range.
- Paul Mitchell says it's for "light to medium blonde, silver, gray or white hair" and is "gentle enough for weekly use."
- It contains Ext. Violet 2 for toning, plus glycerin, and the brand lists it as color safe, vegan and paraben-free.
- Leave it on for 1 to 5 minutes. That range makes it easier to start short if your hair over-tones.
Joico Color Balance Blue Shampoo
Best for: brunettes with highlights, balayage or ombré that's turned orange. Mid-range.
- Joico describes it as a formula that color-corrects "overly warm, brassy or orange tones" in brunette hair with highlights or ombré. It uses a blue dye (Blue 1) and contains rosehip oil, keratin and arginine, per Lookfantastic's listing of the brand copy.
- Leave it on for three to five minutes, two or three times a week. Use your regular shampoo on the other days.
- Who What Wear named it "Best Moisturizing" and noted it's "great for highlights." Keep in mind: it contains fragrance and isn't sulfate-free. On Amazon it often shows up as a shampoo and conditioner set.
Clairol Professional Shimmer Lights Purple Conditioner
Best for: adding a little tone and softness after shampoo, or toning gently on its own. Drugstore.
- Clairol calls it "a rich blend of emollients, moisturizers and color refreshers" that refreshes faded highlights and brightens gray hair, per the Sally Beauty listing.
- Leave it on for one minute, or 2 to 5 minutes for more color.
- Kim Kimble singled out "especially the conditioner" when praising the Shimmer Lights line. Keep in mind: it contains parabens and fragrance.
FAQs
What will purple shampoo do to brown hair?
On solid medium or dark brown hair, not much. On brown hair with blonde highlights or balayage, it cools the yellow in the lightened pieces without changing your base color, says Wella. If those pieces look orange, use blue shampoo.
What will purple shampoo do if I leave it on too long?
It can leave a lilac, pink, blue or silvery tint, especially on bleached, porous or white hair. The tint washes out. A clarifying shampoo removes it faster, and next time, use less time and wash with it less often.
Does purple shampoo lighten hair?
No. It only tints the yellow so it looks neutral. Healthline says it "will not lighten dark hair." If you want lighter hair, that's a salon color job.
Can I use purple shampoo every day?
Most people shouldn't. Healthline and the brands above suggest once or twice a week, because daily use can over-tone light hair and dry some hair types out. Healthline notes that some purple shampoos are designed for daily use, so check your label.
Is purple bottle shampoo the same as purple shampoo?
Not always. What matters is the shampoo, not the bottle. A toning shampoo is violet itself and lists a violet dye, such as Ext. Violet 2 or CI 60730, in its ingredients. If the formula inside is clear or white, it won't tone.
Is "blonde shampoo" the same as purple shampoo?
Often, but not always. Healthline says shampoos for blonde hair are typically cool-toned, but the ingredient list is the real test: look for a violet dye. If you have gray hair, skip "blonde" formulas with gold tones, which a colorist quoted by HJI says can discolor gray.
Yellow means purple, orange means blue, and a few minutes once or twice a week is all it takes.