A good curly hair routine is mostly about doing less, in the right order. Curls are drier and more fragile than straight hair, so the aim is to keep water in, keep friction low, and let your curls dry in their own shape. Below: every wash-day step, how often to wash, refresh days, night care, the Curly Girl Method, and how to adjust it all for waves, curls and coils.
Why curls need their own routine
Curly hair is drier than other hair types, according to AAD dermatologist Dr. Temitayo Ogunleye, and thick curls break more easily. Every bend in a curl is a spot where the surface can lift and snag, so rough towels, dry brushing and daily shampoo all show up as frizzy curly hair.
The fix is less about products and more about technique. Then products give you the finish you want: softness, definition or hold.
Wash day: the curly hair routine, step by step
1. Cleanse your scalp: shampoo or co-wash
Put shampoo on your scalp and let the rinse water carry it through your lengths. The AAD suggests a moisturizing shampoo made for curly hair, and if your hair is long or thick, washing it in sections. If you use gels, creams or oils, it says a clarifying shampoo before your usual one helps clear the buildup. A co-wash (a cleansing conditioner with no lather) is the gentlest option for very dry curls between shampoos. Our best shampoo for curly hair guide covers both.
2. Condition the whole length
Curls need conditioner from roots to ends, not just the ends. The AAD recommends a thick conditioner after every wash. Look for argan oil, glycerin, or fatty alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl alcohol on the label. Curlsmith suggests leaving a rinse-out on for one to two minutes. For picks by curl type, see our best conditioner for curly hair roundup.
3. Detangle while your hair is wet
The best time to comb thick, curly hair is in the shower before you rinse out the conditioner, the AAD says. Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, start at the ends and work up. Never brush curls dry: it breaks them and makes them frizz.
4. Add a leave-in conditioner
This is your moisture layer. Curlsmith's wash-day guide rakes it through soaking-wet hair, since the shape your curls have wet is roughly the shape they dry in, minus shrinkage. The AAD's leave-in conditioner tips suggest damp hair and the smallest amount that works, so it doesn't look greasy. Our view: start soaking wet if you have curls or coils, and damp if you have fine waves.
5. Add a curl cream, a gel, or both
A curl cream softens and defines with little or no hold. A curly hair gel dries into a firm coating that holds curls in shape and keeps humidity out. Many people use both: cream first, gel on top. Apply while hair is still very wet; Curlsmith notes that styling hair that has dried too much leads to stringy curls and frizz. Rub the gel between your palms and smooth it over your hair, or scrunch it in from the ends up.
6. Squeeze out water with a T-shirt, not a terry towel
Celebrity stylist Jennie Roberts, speaking to woman&home, says to skip towel-drying dripping curls and gently squeeze out water in the shower instead, because towel-drying pulls curls apart. Then scrunch with an old cotton T-shirt or a microfiber towel. Plopping is a hands-off version: lay your curls on a flat T-shirt, wrap it around your head, and leave it a short while to soak up water without disturbing the shape.
7. Diffuse on low, or air-dry, and keep your hands off
Air-drying is gentlest. If you diffuse, Curlsmith recommends low speed and low to medium heat, plus heat protectant. Start by hover diffusing (holding the diffuser near your hair without touching it) to set the gel. Then pixie diffuse: cup sections in the bowl and lift them toward your scalp for more volume. Roberts has a "don't touch" rule while hair dries, because touching damp curls makes frizz.
8. Scrunch out the crunch
If you used gel, your curls dry with a stiff gel cast. That's the point: Curlsmith says it holds the curl pattern and reduces frizz while hair dries. Once your hair is 100% dry (Ouidad's test: if your roots still feel cool, wait), cup your curls and squeeze them gently upward with open hands. A drop of oil on your palms makes them softer. Do it too early and you'll get frizz.
How often should you wash curly hair?
Less often than you think. The AAD says thick, curly hair doesn't need washing daily or even weekly, but you should wash at least every two to three weeks for scalp health. Celebrity stylist Larry Sims suggests weekly for looser 3A curls. If your scalp gets oily or itchy before then, wash sooner. A shower cap on non-wash days keeps your style dry.
Refresh days: second- and third-day curls
You don't need a full wash day to bring curls back after sleep, a workout or a hat. Curlsmith's refresh method:
- Mist your hair lightly with water to wake up yesterday's product. Don't soak it.
- Smooth a little leave-in over mid-lengths and ends.
- Twist any limp curls around a finger to reshape them.
- Air-dry or diffuse briefly, and don't touch while damp.
The AAD's advice for tangles between washes is similar: wet the hair, add leave-in, and detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, section by section.
Night care: the pineapple and satin
Pillowcase friction is a big source of morning frizz. The AAD suggests a loose ponytail high on top of your head (the pineapple) or a loose braid, and says satin or silk bonnets or pillowcases "may also reduce friction and preserve your hairstyle." In the morning, take it down, shake it out, and refresh only the curls that need it.
The Curly Girl Method, explained
The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is the best-known curly hair method. Stylist Lorraine Massey popularized it in her 2001 book, Curly Girl: The Handbook. As Healthline summarizes it, the core rules are:
- Use sulfate-free shampoo (or a co-wash).
- Use silicone-free conditioner, since silicones can build up and weigh curls down, it says.
- No brushes or fine-tooth combs; detangle only when wet.
- Blot with a cotton T-shirt, style with a silicone-free gel or cream, and scrunch once dry.
Is it necessary? Healthline notes the method hasn't been studied in large-scale research, though its principles line up with standard dermatology advice. Our view: follow it loosely. Gentle cleansing, lots of conditioner and low friction do most of the work, and you don't have to ban every silicone. Use it as a starting point, not a rulebook.
Adjusting your routine for wavy, curly and coily hair
Curl patterns run from type 2 (wavy) through type 3 (curly) to type 4 (coily), each split into A, B and C. Hairstylist Sophie Rose Gutterman told NBC Select it's easiest to see your type when your hair is wet. Many heads have more than one.
| Hair type | What changes | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Wavy (2A–2C) | Light leave-in plus a lightweight gel; skip heavy oils and rich creams | Heavy products pull waves straight |
| Curly (3A–3C) | Leave-in plus cream or mousse; gel for hold; satin at night | Curls frizz easily and need both moisture and hold |
| Coily (4A–4C) | Richer creams, regular deep conditioning, protective styles, less heat | Coils are the driest and most fragile |
For loose waves, stylist Nika Pearl-Edwards says lightweight products keep the definition. For 2C, Gutterman suggests a cream with oil rather than gel. For coils, stylist Kee Taylor recommends deep conditioning masks and avoiding hot tools.
Picks that help
These are styling products the curly shampoo and conditioner roundups don't cover. Use them after your leave-in.
VERB Curl Cream
Best for: the best curl cream for wavy hair and loose curls, if you want softness without crunch.
- VERB describes it as giving "lightweight moisture, definition and frizz control for waves, curls and coils", with jojoba and castor oils and shea butter. The brand lists it as vegan, with no parabens or harmful sulfates.
- Brand directions: a small amount through damp curls, more as needed, then scrunch.
- Stylist Jaxcee Challenger told NBC Select it "gives hold without any crunch". The trade-off is a lighter hold, so add gel on humid days.
Aunt Jackie's Don't Shrink Flaxseed Elongating Curling Gel
Best for: a budget-friendly hair gel for curly hair and coils, especially if you want more length and less shrinkage.
- Made with flaxseed (linseed) oil and hydrolyzed wheat protein, and NBC Select lists it as silicone-free. The brand says it stretches curls "without flaking or caking".
- Use more for tighter curls and less for stretched ones, the brand says. Rake it through wet hair for a wash-and-go.
- NBC Select named it the best gel for shrinkage and noted it may dry out some hair, so put a leave-in underneath.
Bed Head Curls-in-Check 1875W Hair Diffuser Dryer
Best for: a budget pick if you want a diffuser hair dryer for curly hair and don't own a dryer your diffuser fits.
- A dryer and diffuser in one, with 3 heat and 2 speed settings and ionic technology that the brand says helps reduce frizz and static.
- NBC Select picked it as its best budget diffuser. Editor Zoe Malin says she uses it every time she washes her hair.
- Keep it on low speed and low to medium heat. A John Frieda salon stylist told woman&home that higher settings dry faster but can add a little frizz.
FAQs
What's the simplest curl routine for beginners?
Start with four products: a gentle shampoo, a conditioner, a leave-in and one styler. Wash, condition, detangle in the shower, apply leave-in and styler to soaking-wet hair, then air-dry without touching. Add a gel, a diffuser or a refresh spray only once you know what your curls are missing.
Do I need hair gel for curly hair, or is curl cream enough?
Cream alone is fine if your curls hold their shape and the air isn't humid. If they go fuzzy or limp by midday, add gel on top. Gel forms a cast that holds the curl and keeps humidity out, and you scrunch out the crunch once it's dry. A budget curly hair gel such as Aunt Jackie's Don't Shrink is an easy first one to try.
What's the best curl cream for wavy hair?
Look for one that says it's lightweight and made for waves, and use less than you think. Rich creams and heavy oils can pull waves straight. VERB Curl Cream is one a curl stylist recommends for looser curls. Wavy hair often does better with a light gel on top than with more cream.
What should I look for in the best diffuser hair dryer for curly hair?
Separate low-heat and low-speed settings matter most. Roberts also looks for a wide diffuser bowl with lots of air holes, so curls dry evenly without being moved around. If your dryer has no diffuser, a universal attachment or an all-in-one like the Bed Head Curls-in-Check works.
How to get rid of frizzy curly hair?
Most frizz comes from touching curls while they dry and from not enough moisture. Apply leave-in and gel to very wet hair, swap terry towels for a T-shirt, keep your hands off until it's fully dry, then scrunch out the crunch. Sleep in a pineapple on satin.
Do I have to follow the curly hair method strictly?
No. The Curly Girl Method is a helpful framework, but there's no large study behind it. Dr. Ogunleye says trial and error is normal when building a routine for curls, so change one thing at a time and give it a few wash days.
Pick one wash day this week, follow the steps in order, and change only one thing next time.